Electric fence techniques, any guide?

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2 years 1 month ago #557040 by Off.the.grid
Is there any guide on installing electric fences?
How do you run wires round corners, join burried cables under gates, etc?
I just see alot of mickey mouse jobs done with wires simply twisted together on joints, etc.

Any instructional videos would be great, just bought a pair of rabbit claws, but i see nowdays that alot of wire is joined with crimp connectors.

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2 years 1 month ago #557041 by tonybaker
LOOK HERE
I use crimps as I can't be bothered with those fancy knots! Keep in mind that you are not trying to keep elephants from escaping so don't overthink it. Sheep netting is the best option for LSB as you don't really need any tech knowledge to do it. My first go at fencing was using 50mm square posts and a two wire power and earth return wire system with a smallish battery operated controller. It did all I wanted it to do for cows and sheep. Of course you have to keep an eye on it because if the fence shorts out there is nothing to stop the animals from pushing it over. In reality, animals will not challenge a fence unless there is lots of feed on the other side or animals they want to "play with".

5 acres, Ferguson 35X and implements, Hanmay pto shredder, BMW Z3, Countax ride on mower, chooks, Dorper and Wiltshire sheep. Bosky wood burning central heating stove and radiators. Retro caravan. Growing our own food and preserving it. Small vineyard, crap wine. :)

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2 years 1 month ago #557044 by jeannielea
Ours go under gates etc by being threaded through a polythene pipe (like a hose) which is then buried below the surface.

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2 years 1 month ago - 2 years 1 month ago #557046 by LongRidge
I tried burying these so-called highly insulated underground cables without putting them through 15mm or 18 mm polythene pipe, but the insulation soon cracked so the fence would short out under the gates in wet weather. Now every underground is threaded through poly pipe. Always bend the pipe where it re-attaches to the fence so that water cannot get into the pipe. Always use an electric fence clamp to fasten the underground to the fence on the far side of the underground. This way it is easy to disconnect for when you have to check if power is being lost underground.
I have lots of gates in each paddock (at least 3). With some of them I do not want the animals rubbing on them so I have an electrified outrigger on the gate. This consists of 2 end insulators at each end of the gate, and 2 outriggers between them the keep the hot wire off the gate. Having an electrified gate can be a shocking experience. Then connect this to the hotwire by threading a piece of wire through a convenient length of pipe and bending the end to a hook. I also use these sort of connections to connect one fence to another or one wire to another on the same fence when I don't need to use switches. It is a bit mickey mouse but it works well.
Last edit: 2 years 1 month ago by LongRidge.

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2 years 1 month ago #557047 by Hertz Donut
For going under gates I do the same as Jeannie - push an insulated wire through an offcut of 25mm irrigation pipe, then lay that about 200mm underground directly in line with the gate, then crimp the insulated wire at either end to the hot wire (or connect to an insulated wire strainer if one is present). I run the 25mm pipe as far up the fence post as I can to provide an extra layer of protection, and to stop the insulation rubbing through over time on nearby wires.

For internal corners (where the corner points "into" the paddock) I use 2 pinlock insulators in line with either direction, while for external corners (where the corner points "out of" the paddock) I use a strain insulator wired off the inside of the post.

I also use crimps, buying something like a Strainrite 5-in-1 crimping tool is highly recommended. After a few goes you can get them looking very tidy - I can see rapid progress in my work as I've gone around the paddocks.

If you're running out a lot of wires or expect to over time, get a wire jenny - I use a Strainrite Titan one. Also handy for reeling wires back in when removing them.

Something to remember with electric fences is they're designed to stop animals approaching, not restrain them, so they don't have to be strained tight like a standard wire. This means you're not likely to over-strain one and cause yourself issues.

I haven't got round to installing a mains energiser yet so I'm running multiple solar units in different areas.

I really enjoy putting in permanent electric fencing, and I'm starting to enjoy fencing in general. I get a lot of satisfaction out of putting in infrastructure. I'm by no means a professional but I've done a lot of DIY over the years and this is another string to my bow.

(Disclaimer: Not affiliated with Strainrite in any way, just a fan of their products.)

Don't ask me, it was on its side when I got here.

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2 years 1 month ago #557048 by lsbloke
Hi Off the Grid

under gates - get a sharp fencing spade and cut a trench (thin) strainer to strainer maybe a spade blade deep get some proper (eg Gallagher) insulated fencing wire/ undergate cable gate length = gatewidth plus 2 feet and thread it into 15mm alkathene - length = gate width plus a foot or so at each end - get wide staples and secure the alkathene plus cable to each strainer post - pointing up into the air and make sure the cable lies along the bottom of your trench - fill the trench in and tamp down - at each strainer loop the alkathene and cable round one side of the post and into wide downward facing U shape so that the alkathene end is pointing down into the ground and secure that end with another staple then bend the spare length of cable up the post and along onto a 'hot' wire and clamp with a joint clamp.

I often put a switch onto the strainer as its usually a good place to start 'zones' in the system

on corners you can run hot wires behind the post inside thin plastic insulated tubes or through 'corner insulators which you fix to the strainer with wire or screw in

google 'corner insulators' and you'll see images of what I'm talking about.

Good luck & keep asking for help - look at the Gallagher website they have guides and handbooks which are helpful BUT the techniques do not come easy but are very rewarding when you do get it right.

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