Dogs and fleas
- dinnaefash
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My preference always is to find a 'natural' solution, but so far this season I've tried 3 different methods to no avail (aromatherapy, electro-magnetic tags, feed supplements). Finally gave in and used Frontline - but I'm still seeing fleas, and the terrier is pretty badly affected by bites

Any ideas??
Ne vous fachez pas [

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We also flea bombed the house as well.
Wee Farm
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I learnt a good trick that I had never heard of and that is to put dishwashing liquid or I guess shampoo would work into a glass of water and as you drop the flea in they die in the sticky water! I have used boiling water up till now but this is a lot easier and safer.
Can you flea comb (animal one) your terrier?
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I would try getting rid of the fleas with Frontline or equivalent first if you have an infestation and then maintain the garlic levels.
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We used to use an organic garlic blend that we tipped in with their food but unfortunately didn't sort out the Tics
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Cheers
http:treeandshrub.co.nz
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Background, I have lived on this property for 21 years, have always had dogs and cats and NEVER had a flea problem. My animals were lucky if they were defleaed once every six months. The two fleas I found on my dog were the most I had ever seen on her in her life! It appears that was the end of it's usefulness. She is four.
Today is 21 days since I applied R and for the past five days, I have been taking up to 30 fleas a day off her with a flea comb. I am not being bitten, my vistors are not being bitten, the house is clean and regularly vaccumed. No new animals - nothing has changed except for using R. The majority of fleas are found at the site of application for goodness sake.
To add to this, I was speaking with a friend this morning, also on a farm and he said he too had used R for the first time and his two dogs were crawling with fleas. Neither of us have had this problem before. He was the one who actually said that it is acting like a attraction! I had said the same thing to the Rep.
As regards enviromental factors, the only thing we have in common is humidity with him getting no rain and me getting a reasonable amount. One of the things I did find out was that there were no tests done in NZ as to effectiveness (the background is USA and Aussie (can't remember others) and all I could say was that maybe our fleas are different to American fleas! Anyway, I'm not happy so thought I would update my previous post as I have completely changed my mind.
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3 Cocker Spaniels, 1 Huntaway, 3 Cats, Goats, Sheep, Pigs, Cows, Ducks, Chickens, Bunnies - small petting zoo?:rolleyes::cool:
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Regardless, to be paying that amount of money for a product that lasts two weeks is outside the claims in their own paperwork. "Adult fleas are killed for one month following administration etc". "Flea larvae and eggs exposed to this R dosing schedule are killed or rendered not viable and flea reproduction is stopped (what the hell does that mean - they can't breed?) but they can continue biting? Well it is not working on my dog.
My Vet has agreed to me returning the unused ones and will replace it with another brand. Incidentally, my dog vomited the day after having this as well (she never vomits!) so I won't be using this product again but happy for others to choose too if they are not having the same problems. I'm just sharing my experience in case others are also and if so, I hope you will ring the Manufacturer (on the box) and make a report.
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Would it be possible for the fleas to build up an immunity, like lice do to the shampoos??
it has been particularly bad this summer.
Wee Farm
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It is often not enough to treat the dog (or cat) affected by fleas. It is also important to treat the areas the dog (or cat) inhabits. Most of the time the fleas are not on the dog (or cat) the adult fleas, pupae and larvae spend more time in the areas where the animal sleeps or inhabits. I.e. The pet bedding, kennel, sleeping quarters and areas surrounding. These should be treated with an insecticide containing an insect growth regulator (IGR). The IGR will prevent eggs or larvae developing into sexually mature adults. The insecticide should contain a long tern residual insecticide to kill adult fleas as they emerge from the pupal stage. There are several appropriate insecticides. look for one that mentions control of fleas and contains IGR.
David
The Pest Advice
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As far as the area she inhabits on a daily basis - she is all over the farm with me every day so that would seem to be out of the question. Having said all that, I have decided to fly spray all my carpets. I was advised to many years ago by the Health Department when I had a "shag pile" carpet and it worked a treat. Spray, vaccum and then repeat three days later. I'm shopping tomorrow so will bear in mind your advise and check the cans. Thanks for that.
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Dog fleas prefer to suck the blood of dogs. Cat fleas prefer the blood of cats. Bird fleas prefer the blood of birds.
So I am not surprised that fleas do not feed off you, but feed on the blood of your dog. They are almost certainly dog fleas. I am also not surprised that you do not see them, even on the white sheets. Fleas do not spend much time on their hosts. Once they have had a good feed they hop off to hide in out of the way places where they are hard to detect.
Which dog flea control product do you use?
The health dept. gave good advice on vacuum vacuum vacuum. This removes the detritus that larvae would feed on (dust and skin cells) that build up in carpets, and will remove some eggs. It also activates pupae. Make sure you seal vacuum bags in plastic bags and dispose of promptly.
When you purchase flea control product tomorrow make sure you chose one that the contains insect growth regulator (IGR).
Good luck to you and your spoilt wee brat.
Wish I had one.
The Pest Advice
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I will certainly not be using that particular product again.
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