Gorse

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3 years 6 months ago #543957 by Green As!
Gorse was created by Green As!
Hey....so we have just moved to a 15 acre hilly lifestyle block. We are ex townies, but have always wanted some land. Currently overwhelmed with what we have to do (previous owners left the place in a mess!). There is a lot of gorse, and today we tried to tackle some with the chainsaw. Aside from the fact that I am now covered in welts from the gorse, does anyone have any tough gloves that they recommend to use for handling the dam prickly stuff!! I'm gathering from reading through old posts, that feeling overwhelmed is a common feeling! It's so nice to be out here and we are lucky to be here, but wow some days it's just like "what the hell are we doing!!"

Loving this site though - so much good information has been found on here for us!

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3 years 6 months ago #543958 by LongRidge
Replied by LongRidge on topic Gorse
Welcome to LSBing, and every day is another learning experience :-).
The red leather welding gloves work well until they get a hole in them. The colour does leach out of them so you will get red hands when the gloves are wet.
Gorse is a sign that the soil is too low in sulphate for clover to grow well, which a soil test will show. Thus fertilise with a high sulphate superphosphate, about 200 lk per hectare. I do it out of 20 litre plastic buckets by hand. Precise placement is not important yet on these slopes. At some stage it will need lime spread over it, but that might have to be by aeroplane.
I kill big gorse and barberry by chopping it then wuthun 20 minutes paint the stumps with 1 part Grazon to 10 parts diesel with a tiny bit of spray dye in it. I have heard that Glyphosate, water and dye also works.
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3 years 6 months ago #543962 by stentor
Replied by stentor on topic Gorse
as before good advice - Super Cheap Auto probably best for welding gloves by price


For my gorse I used a scrub bar with a cheap solid blade - shaped a bit like a skilsaw blade but with only about 4 teeth
If I hit a stone it could get re-filed and it cut with speed not sharpness

Raked it up and put it through a Hansa portable mulcher
Put the sheep over the leftovers and they nibble the new growth, eventually I could just kick over the dead stalks

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3 years 6 months ago #543992 by lsbloke
Replied by lsbloke on topic Gorse
Hi there

Yup gorse is very vigorous. Lasts for years and years but it coached me to work steadily be realistic and persistant.

The sense of achievement when an acre is cleared is priceless.

I m with you good hat overalls and tough leather gloves chainsaw and brushcutter with 4 tooth blade and handsaw just spend the most you can afford on this it will pay back

Use the thick stalks for firework paint the stumps to kill the plant pile up the slash

Chuck on a bit of lime and grass seed

Rip up your gym membership

Its all good

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3 years 6 months ago #543995 by Ramsay
Replied by Ramsay on topic Gorse
Hi
What do you end up doing with the slash?
Just leave it in a pile to rot down or something else?
Thanks
Richard

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3 years 6 months ago #544005 by LongRidge
Replied by LongRidge on topic Gorse
If you are able to make the soil conditions more correct for pasture and less correct for gorse then you can leave it where it is to rot away in 2 to 3 years.
I stack it into a pile then take it to my forestry to dump, because I don't like hazards in the grazing area. I have also let it dry out then get a fire permit and burn it on the drive. Gorse seeds sprout much better if they have been heated, so the fire site has to be easy to get to the spray any seedlings :-(.
Gorse 50 mm or more makes good firewood, but use gloves when stoking the fire.

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3 years 6 months ago #544176 by Bjorny
Replied by Bjorny on topic Gorse
When we first bought our place, I immediately assumed I had to be at war with the gorse. However, not wanting to use chemicals (even if you're not worried about your own health, they're dreadful for soil microbiology and any nearby watercourse or dam), we've looked at other options. In large and accessible areas, we've mulched it (a mulcher towed behind a tractor). That works tremendously well and the mulch from the gorse is a wonderful soil builder. When it begins to come back, stock will eat it while it's young. I've also been chipping that which escapes the stock.

In the areas that are more difficult to access, we're adopting different approaches. Gorse is a nitrogen fixer and, because of the prickles as well, a good nursery crop to protect other trees while they're young. Once those trees grow, they'll shade out the gorse. It needs to be in pretty good sun to flourish.

Good luck.
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3 years 6 months ago #544181 by Mudlerk
Replied by Mudlerk on topic Gorse
Good for you, Bjorny...wish more people had your understanding of how to deal with gorse!

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3 years 6 months ago #544198 by Ronney
Replied by Ronney on topic Gorse
Exactly how many acres do you own and how many of that is covered in gorse? I have a very good reason for asking.

Cheers,
Ronnie

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3 years 6 months ago #544242 by Bjorny
Replied by Bjorny on topic Gorse
Hi Ronnie - when we bought it, 35 acres of gorse country ranging from not much in parts to over head high and impenetrable in parts. What is your very good reason?

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2 years 2 months ago #550708 by vorno
Replied by vorno on topic Gorse
As for me, during this lockdown all I have is my trusty machete to take care of the gorse!

...don't even have a proper pair of gloves... Got 1 glove and the gorse still gets through it!!

I'll look into welding / leather gloves in the meantime.

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