The Pest Advice

Hello to all you lifestyle block owners and farmers out there.

I have worked in the pest control industry in the UK, Ireland and NZ for ......oh dear........over 30 years. So if anyone needs some advice I am happy to help where I can.

I now write articles for several magazines and forums and answer questions from people with problems with, rats, mice, possums, ants, cockroaches, fleas, bed bugs, spiders, aphids, moulds, ..........the list goes on and on.

I came to NZ five years ago and worked initially with a large Tb vector control company. For ten years I investigated the epidemiology of bovine Tb in Ireland and the UK and so possums were something I knew about from experts visiting from this beautiful land and telling me about the problem.

The pest issues in NZ are so much more interesting in NZ than in Europe because the pests are all imported and controlling them is not just a matter of stopping a nuisance it is also about protecting natural ecosystems. Which I find makes it much more rewarding.

Let me know what you think.

David

Hi David and welcome to lsb

We have just moved onto a 220acre block in Northland and have about 150 acres of native bush. So we have lots of possums and need to get rid of them. We're catching two a night using apple in Timms traps. Sometimes though, something is getting the apple without springing the traps

Cheers
Kate

welcome to LSB david
I am sure your knowledge will be much appreicated here ... and am alos sure you will be able to get advice on any livestock things you want
Its a really nice and friendly site

Hi Kate,

Thanks for the welcome.

As for dealing with the possums on your new property in Northland. I am very envious of your 150 acres of native bush. What a great opportunity to do your bit for preserving New Zealand's fantastic native environment.

Methods for Stopping Possum Damage

There are three methods of controlling possums; shooting, toxic baits and traps. For each method there are many different products.

Licensed possum control contractors often use a combination of methods from aerially applied baits laced with the controversial toxin 1080 to lines of cyanide baits and leg hold traps. But for the individual farmer, lifestyle block owner or home owner the options are limited to methods that are simpler and more targeted at the smaller property.

Shooting

Shooting is direct but requires a lot of personal input and not everyone is that good a shot.

Traps

The advantages of traps include low risk of harming non-target animals, no eco-toxicity, you get to see what you have caught and pelts and fur can be collected for sale.

The disadvantages are they are labour intensive, needing re-baited and reset regularly. They also require some skill and knowledge to be set correctly and in the best locations. Most of all they only catch one possum at a time.

There are a variety of trap designs available; leg hold traps, live capture traps and kill traps.

Leg Hold Traps

Set leg-hold traps where possums travel or beside trees showing possum sign or possum ‘runs’. Rub ‘lure’ behind each trap to help attract possums. Ensure the chain is connected to a solid object such as a tree or post, with as short a length as possible.

Place the traps on level ground, so that trapped animals are not left hanging over steep banks or ledges. Clear away material from around the trap that could injure a struggling animal.

If there is a risk of catching non-target animals such as pets or ground birds such as kiwi place traps on raised boards. Secure the trap chain at a 45 degree angle behind the tree ensuring the chain is long enough to allow the trapped animal to fall to the ground, without being left hanging.

Leg hold traps must be checked at least daily.

Live Capture Traps

Live capture traps (cage traps) can be purchased from most farm supply stores. They are mainly used in urban areas where there is a higher risk of catching pets. Leave new traps outside to weather for a few days before use. Set traps near possum-damaged plants or beside possum runs. Place the trap on firm ground and check that the door closes properly when triggered. Make sure the trap faces the direction possums are most likely to approach from. Ensure the trap is placed so that a possum cannot climb down on top of it, triggering the trapdoor too early. Attach bait to the trigger arm of the trap. Use apple, kiwifruit, orange carrot or manufactured long life bait. Set the trap by lifting the door and holding it open with the trip pin. Insert the trip pin only far enough to prevent a light wind from releasing the door.

Live capture traps must be checked at least daily.

Kill Traps

Kill traps are typically lightweight, cheap and easy to set. They can effectively control possums in small to moderate sized areas, such as urban gardens and lifestyle blocks. The Timms kill trap is a popular example of a kill trap. They can be set on the ground where non-target animals are not present. Make sure traps are secure by pegged to the ground. If non-target animals might be at risk attach the trap to a tree, fence or roof - drill holes into the back and sides of the trap, thread strong cord through the holes and tie to a branch or platform.

When using Timms traps keep your fingers clear of the front opening at all times. Set the traps in late afternoon/early evening and bait with a piece of fruit, such as quarter of a fresh apple or orange, pieces of carrot or long life lure. Do not use meat or fish as bait as it will attract cats to the trap. Keep family pets indoors while the trap is set. Replace fresh bait every two days or use long life bait gel bait available at most rural supplies.

Disposal of Caught Possums

In New Zealand it is illegal to release live possums. All live captured possums must be killed humanely. Be very careful when approaching trapped possums as they have sharp claws and teeth.

Dispose of possum carcasses by burying them in your garden, leaving them to decompose, in the bush, or putting them in your rubbish bag if you live in an urban area.

I recommend the use of traps that have successfully passed the National Animal Welfare Advisory Committee (NAWAC) guidelines for welfare. Go to the Landcare Research website for more information.

Baits for Traps

The baits used to lure possums into traps include apple, orange, carrot, flavoured flour and icing sugar and some retailed baits. These tend to have short effective lives and need replacing after a few days. There is also long life non-toxic gel bait that remains palatable and attractive to possums for months.

Toxic Bait

Unless you possess a poisons licence you must only use toxic baits that are registered for use by un-licensed operators. Cholecalciferol (Vitamin D3) baits do not require a licence and are effective against possums, have low eco-toxicity and pose a low risk to animals that might scavenge of the carcasses of dead possums.

All toxic bait should be placed in bait stations, both to reduce the risks to non-target animals and to protect the baits.

Set stations on trees showing possum sign or possum ‘runs’. In areas where there is no risk of dogs, stock, weka or other non-target species feeding on the bait, the stations should be fixed vertically on a tree, post or other suitable surface at about 30cm from the ground. In this position a possum can stand comfortably and feed at the station.

If dogs, stock, weka or other non-target species are likely to enter the area, the stations should be placed at 2 metres or higher, out of their reach. Always follow the instructions supplied with the product. If possible the station should be placed 30cm above a branch or other platform such as a branch so that the possums can still stand comfortably and feed at the station.

Attract Possums to a Bait or Trap

A flour blaze or other visual lure can be added to the tree to attract possums to the position of the station. There are many formulations of flour blaze used but the one most often used by professionals is made from half flour, half icing sugar and a good pinch of ground cinnamon. Warning signs supplied must be displayed in areas where the public have access.

Help Protect New Zealand

If you keep control of possum numbers on your property you are not only helping protect your own lifestyle your are helping to protect NZ's ecosystems and preventing the spread of tuberculosis.

David

Welcome to LSB - what can you tell me about keeping wasps & off grapes ?

Hi Sandy,

This is a problem I have had questions on before. There is currently not a registered ready made wasp bait available in New Zealand. I am actively working with others to rectify this.

The best way to deal with wasps is to to deal with the wasp's nests directly using carbaryl or other powder insecticide. Nest sites can sometimes be identified by following wasps that have fed back the nest. Take a bearing of the direction wasp take after leaving the grapes. They tend to fly back to their nest in a straight line.

However, in many cases the nests cannot be found. In this case baits can be home made. One that has some chance of helping is made with tinned sardines or salmon (non flavored) mixed with carbaryl, wasp control permethrin or other insecticide. Some products give advice on making baits on the label. Using meat based bait makes it unattractive to bees which are, of course, beneficial. If sweet baits are used make sure bees are not feeding on the bait. If they are, remove the bait immediately.

The 'trick' with baits is to make the insecticide weak enough for the worker wasps to get the bait back to the nest before it kills the worker. In the nest then it is fed to larvae and particularly the queen. Without a queen the nest is doomed.

Good luck and watch out for new baits, maybe next season.

David

Welcome David
Awesome to have someone with your field of experience on the forum.
Rest your keyboard mate, I don't have any questions for you.
Good reading your writeup on possums though, thanks for that.

Mike.

Pest Advice;303951 wrote: Shooting

Shooting is direct but requires a lot of personal input and not everyone is that good a shot.

FYI there's a few Auckland rifle club shooters that are always keen to organise to go out to properties and nail rabbits and possums from time to time, both morning and sunset/night. Enjoyable fun for us ! and we use both silenced .22 which is very quiet and air rifles when there's a bit of stock/property/etc nearby.

And thanks to LSB forums for some south Auckland property owners letting us shoot when we can. About 150 less possums, 100 less rabbits and hares and club shooters walking around with a huge on their face on one property near Maramarua in the last couple of months.

And we're always keen for more places to go to.

Concur with KScott, as we regularly shoot together. I sure together we could rustle up a few references for those that want them. []

And welcome Pest Advice. Apologies for the thread hijack.

For wasps, Frontline Large Dog, with 100gm/Kg (10%) Fipronil as the active ingredient, mixed with sardines in oil or greasy catfood, knocked down the wasp population enormously here.

DOC at the Nelson Lakes has a PHD or Masters student on entomology and pest control doing a thesis on the effects and efficiency of Fipronil based wasp control. DOC is funding the research with an eye to seeing it released as a fully available wasp control bait that rangers can use, rather than needing to be used under controlled research conditions by researchers. It's working well around the lake, and locals outside the DOC/Student areas catchment all use Fipronil based flea stuff as home brew wasp killer.

Being a systematic insecticide, the wasps eating it take it back to the nest and it wipes the entire nest out.

Hi Kiwi303,

I am aware of the work on using fipronil for use in baits for the control of wasps. However, my understanding of the situation is that the holders of the patents on fipronil will not allow its use against wasps. This is following issues with its use in other parts of the world and bi-kill of bees. Use of fipronil outside controlled research situations as you describe may be illegal. It is certainly not permitted use under current NZFSA ACVM or ERMA regulations.

Pest Advice, what's your recommendation for getting rid of bees from a house? Local Apiarists are unable to help due to its location, so poisoning may be the only option.

Hi Stikkibeek,

I hate destroying bee colonies. I grew up with bee hives. However, there are occasions that bee colonies set up home in inappropriate places and the only option is safe destruction.

I am assuming the bees you have a problem with are honey bees as you contacted the local apiarists. This was the right thing to do first. For others with a similar problem you can find a local bee keeper in the Yellow Pages or go to the National Beekeepers Association website where they hold a list of beekeepers willing to collect swarms.

If your bee colony is in the wall or roof of a house and cannot be collected then you should destroy the colony using a powder insecticide such as carbaryl. It is important to deal with honey bee colonies before they begin a honey store. Honey stores will continue to attract other bees and wasps even after the original colony has been destroyed. If a honey store has been started it must be removed or sealed after destruction of the colony.

Destroy the colony by puffing carbaryl powder into the entrance of the nest or onto the surfaces on which bees land before going into the nest. The bees will carry the powder into the nest where it will kill the other workers, larvae and queen. This may take several repeat treatments if the colony is large, as it is likely to be at this time of the year. The worker bees will also sacrifice themselves in an attempt to remove the powder.

Wasp powder contains 5% carbaryl and may not be strong enough to get quick destruction of a bee nest. Carbaryl 80 wettable powder garden insecticide is 80% carbaryl and can be used. The puffer pack that the wasp dust comes in may be useful for puffing the carbaryl 80 into the nest.

Precautions should be taken when applying the insecticide. Bees sting. Carry out he treatment at night when there is no activity or wear protective equipment. One advantage of using powder rather than liquid insecticide is that the bees tend to remain calm with powders while liquids will make them aggressive.

Bees are not normally aggressive and do not sting unless they feel they or the nest is threatened. Remain calm if a bee lands on you (easier said than done) and it is unlikely to sting. Bee stings are barbed and the sting will remain in your skin after the bee has been brushed off. The bee dies of its wounds but the sting continues to pump venom. If you do get stung, remove the sting by scraping it out with a finger nail. Do not pinch it and pull it out. Pinching it will pump the venom into your skin. Walk away calmly from the bees. The sting will release a pheromone that induces other bees to sting.

If you do not feel confident about dealing with the colony yourself, or you are one of the unfortunate people that react badly to bee stings, I would recommend you get the services of a professional pest controller. Use a operator that is a member of the Pest Management Association of NZ.

I hope that advice has been of some help to you Stikkibeek and others with a similar problem.
David

Thanks PA. I do know about carbaryl. I think the place they have gone into the wall of the house is a very difficult place to get at under a windowsill. A puffer with a very long snout might work though. Will talk with the pest management people about dealing with the hive.
I like bees too, I wouldn't deliberately harm them, except that they are terrorising an elderly couple and local apiarists have had a look at the position and declared it unable to be accessed. Pity it wasn't as simple as setting up a hive nearby and luring them out.

Hi David
Ahhh some one for me to bounce off ive been trialing pest controls for 5-6yrs now mainly in hothouses for veges.
I have formulated a insecticide and now have registration for the use on comercially grown food crops, what a misson deally with all the gov departments and consultants not to mention the cost.
www.naturallyneem.co.nz
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