Dressmaking help

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9 years 2 months ago #34883 by Robinsons Folly?
Hi there, I was hoping one of the dressmakers could please help. I'd like to make a costume dress http://www.simplicity.com/p-2098-costumes.aspx

Up until now, my costumes have been separates, with no boning. the problem I have is that I am (based on their weird sizes), a 12 in the bust, a 20 in the waist and a 18 in the hip. Go figure.... I am actually a anywhere between a 12 - 14 ish in ready to wear, depending on the cut.

So, obviously I need to make the waist and hips big enough to fit, but if i use the matching bodice for those sizes then the bust (including the ease which is built in) will be waaay too big.... :D and as you know there is only so much a girl can do to increase her bust non surgically!!

How do I use the smaller bodice size and match it to the correct notches/seams etc on the larger bottom half so everything matches as it should?

Is it going to be too difficult and should I go back to separates??? :D

Three Piggies, Four Chooky Babes, Randy the Roo, Hubby and Me. [:D]

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9 years 2 months ago #458654 by Hawkspur
Replied by Hawkspur on topic Dressmaking help
I have done this sort of adjustment. It is a little fiddlier with this type of pattern (the bodice) because it is a fitted style, so there is not a lot of tolerance or ease, and the fit is obvious. It is easiest with patterns that are all in one, where there are several sizes on the one pattern, because then you can effectively draw the line between say, from smaller bust to larger hip. You are crossing between two different size groups which will make it a little trickier, but by no means impossible.
All the parts that need to fit to other parts will be the same size.
Just draw the lines as required between the areas where you know the measurements and sizes, (Check all the measurements they give against yours, not just the basic hip bust and waist, so also check under bust and high bust, and bodice length etc) and then cut generously, with plenty of seam allowance. Sew up the bodice vertical seams, and fit it by putting it on you inside out, noting any areas needing adjustments. Allow a little space during this fitting for the thickness of the linings if it has a bodice liner.

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9 years 2 months ago #458663 by grannie Mary
Replied by grannie Mary on topic Dressmaking help
Lay your bodice pattern on the table & cut from the waist up to the nipple area, then spread the pattern out to the measurement you require. You will need to redraw the bodice waist line but if you are a sewer you should have no trouble there

I would suggest you try making it up in an old sheet to see how it fits before cutting in to your expensive fabric

Mary

"Worrying does not empty tomorrow of its trouble,
It empties today of its strength."

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9 years 2 months ago #458664 by grannie Mary
Replied by grannie Mary on topic Dressmaking help
dont try to alter all your sizing on your side seams but you could add a wee bit there, you will also need to alter the back from the waist up in line with your shoulder blade

Mary

"Worrying does not empty tomorrow of its trouble,
It empties today of its strength."

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9 years 2 months ago #458704 by Robinsons Folly?
Replied by Robinsons Folly? on topic Dressmaking help
Thanks to Hawkspur and Grannie Mary for your advice.
While I'd like to think I am a sewer, I have not done any redrafting of patterns before. eek :)

Three Piggies, Four Chooky Babes, Randy the Roo, Hubby and Me. [:D]

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9 years 2 months ago #458712 by Robinsons Folly?
Replied by Robinsons Folly? on topic Dressmaking help
second thought? would it be easier to cut the correct bodice pattern, and then resize the skirts up instead? :confused:

Three Piggies, Four Chooky Babes, Randy the Roo, Hubby and Me. [:D]

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9 years 2 months ago #458723 by Hawkspur
Replied by Hawkspur on topic Dressmaking help
By correct bodice pattern, do you mean the original, or that for your measurements?
The bodice does not really need to fit to the hip because it does not extend that far, but it does need to fit the waist. The fullness of the skirt will give all the tolerance you need for the relatively small difference in size between your hip and waist and the standard size. As GM said, the adjustment needs to be done for all seams. You will see the differences between sizes on the pattern pieces and how the outlines are quite different in some areas but very similar in others.
When you have done the initial piece together, (initially, sew it with very long straight stitches to allow you to unpick easily, and resew once adjusted) and are fitting the bodice, adjust the seams so that the seam that runs down over the bust to the centre front (in the picture it has different fabric colour either side) is positioned so it runs over the point of each breast. This will ensure that it sits neatly on you and is not distorted.

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9 years 2 months ago #458756 by grannie Mary
Replied by grannie Mary on topic Dressmaking help
I would buy the size 12 pattern or maybe 14 & alter the waist & skirt, by buying the smaller size you wont have a problem with the shoulders fitting.
I should have mentioned that I would cut the skirt pattern form waist to hem & spread that out to fir the bodice waist.

If you start alterining the bodice you will also have problems with the arm hole fitting..
Complicating it sounds I know but it will work

Mary

"Worrying does not empty tomorrow of its trouble,
It empties today of its strength."

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