Home  Fencing
Running the Farm : Fencing
This section contains articles on fencing. There are hundreds of other useful articles in our lifestyle file. If you're looking for something in particular then use the search box above. If not, then browse the article titles and see what there is to help you. If you can't find an answer here then why not ask in our discussion forums? One of the very friendly and helpful members is sure to be able to help you.
New articles are added all the time so don't forget to check back here regularly!
Running The Farm
Fencing
-
 A tried and true design for sheep yards built by Bruce Binnie.
-
 We live on the Wairua River in Whangarei. Kate lives in Helena Bay. The headwaters of the Wairua start on Kate's property and they're crystal clear. The water is a completely different colour when it gets to our place, and even worse when it empties into the Kaipara Harbour beyond Dargaville.
-
 Climbing fences is a bad habit - it damages or weakens them a little bit every time and will eventually compromise the integrity of the fenceline. A gate is probably the easiest way to get from one side of a fence to the other, and it's certainly the only practical way I can think of to get livestock from one side of a fence to the other. But there are times you want an easy way for humans to hop over a fence, without the expense of adding a gate.
-
 Running a few head of livestock is one of the reasons we choose to live on a lifestyle block. But that brings with it a responsibility as well as a potential liability - you can be liable for any damage caused by your livestock if they get out, or if they make it onto the road. More often than not they'll get out when feed is tight, you're pushing them harder, and the grass over the fence/at the neighbours/on the verge is more appealing than where they're supposed to be grazing.
-
 "I'm about to build a 7 wire fence and don't know what the spacing between the wires should be". It's a common question to which there is more than one correct answer. Wire spacings vary depending on region, type of stock being grazed, personal preference, or number of wires on the fence (which also varies depending on all the preceding reasons). Historically, fences in the North Island were more substantially built than those in the South Island.
-
 Fences don't last forever, at some point they'll need fixing or replacing. Catch problems early and you can repair them (usually cheaply), leave things long enough and replacement will be your only practical option (always more expensive). Regular maintenance extends the life of a fence. Over time wires get loose, they also slacken off/tighten up as temperature changes or the ground dries out then gets wet again during the year. Staples come out, wires break, electric insulators break, livestock put pressure on a fence - it all takes it toll.
-
A
 t some point on your lifestyle block you'll need to join 2 wires together on a fence line. It might be to repair a broken fence, you may have to cut a fence temporarily, or it could be where a coil of wire runs out and you need to join onto another, or at the end of the fence where you're tying off to a strainer post. The easiest options for the novice are to either use a permanent wire strainer at one end of the fence line, or to use something like a Wirelok (or Fastlok) or Gripple to put a join anywhere along the fence line. Permanent wire strainers can also be used in the middle of a fence line to join 2 wires.
-
 If you've got fences, you'll need gates. The best sorts of gates are the ones that open and close easily, and contain animals regardless of whether the electric fence unit is on or not. Taranaki gates might be OK for gateways that get opened rarely or very occasionally, but for higher traffic areas - you can't beat a farm gate on hinges. "Replace Taranaki Gates" has always been near the top of the to-do list on every property I've ever owned.
-
 This set of plans is for a simple set of yards, suitable for the average small lifestyle block. A loading ramp can be added off the front of the headbail area at some point in the future if needed.
-
 If you are going to have livestock on your lifestyle block - you'll need pens or stockyards. Stock handling facilities aren't something that belong on the "would be nice to have" list, they're essential. You'll need them to deal with sick animals, drenching, eartagging animals if they're going to move off your property, mandatory TB testing when required … all the things that you can't do with an animal in the middle of a paddock.
-
 The original Fencing Act of 1908 has had many amendments over the years. There was a major main amendment in 1979, and then the Fencing of Swimming Pool Act 1987. This article picks out the key points you need to know, including the definition of a boundary fence.
-
 If you're building a fence the old fashioned way, you'll need to dig holes. Even with a tractor and rammer there will be times you need to resort to putting a post in manually. This article looks at the various options for making a hole, and some tips and techniques to go with them.
-
This article contains all the standard fencing measures you're ever likely to need. Sizes and quantities of posts, wire, nails and staples. Pete Gregory also gives standard fence spacings for various types of stock and a very useful cattle stockyard measurements.
-
 Most lifestyle properties will need fencing. If you're keeping livestock, you'll need fences to keep them in, to manage your grazing pasture, and to keep unwanted animals out. If you're running a horticultural operation or planning to turn your entire property into an animal free zone you'll still need to maintain boundary fencing to keep any wandering stock out.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
|
|
